January is here and with it comes the familiar longing for cosy evenings, duvet days and fires that crackle well into the night. While winter can make us want to retreat until the first signs of spring, I’ve come to see this season differently. As the new year unfolds, it feels like the perfect moment to rise, venture out, chase a bit of winter sunshine, and take good care of ourselves.
Let’s start at a destination beloved by Irish travellers in search of heat, Tenerife. This Canary Island gem, sitting just off Africa’s northwest coast, is a stunning mix of dramatic terrain, soft beaches, and a gentle Atlantic climate—an unbeatable choice for a winter escape. Beyond its idyllic scenery, Tenerife holds a deep-rooted wine tradition, crafting remarkable wines from native grape varieties that rarely get the attention they deserve. With the two wines I’ve chosen, you’ll experience a taste of the island’s distinctive character, enjoying a little Canary Islands warmth no matter where you are. And for those fortunate enough to be heading there soon, may these indigenous grapes guide you confidently through any local wine list.
For me this time of year pushes me to focus on delivering real value, after the expense of Christmas, customers deserve wines that offer quality without the heavy price tag. That’s why our journey continues through Spain, landing in regions like Madrid and Valencia. I’ve selected two standout wines that punch far above their price point, proving that a bottle’s worth isn’t dictated by its cost. So here’s to a winter filled with exploration, finding warmth in the sun when we can, and in our glasses when we can’t, with wines that brighten even the frostiest days.
Sophie Robson, Lilith January 2026
La Comarcal Blanco 2024
- Producer: La Comarcal Viticultores
- Vintage: 2024
- Alcohol: 11.5
- Drink: 12-14°C
- Price: €19
- Region: Valencia, SpainGrapes: Malvasía (80%), Macabeo (10%), Chardonnay (10%)
- Drink at: Uno Mas, Vada, McCourtain Wine Cellar(Cork)
La Comarcal is a collaboration between Victor Marqués and Javi Revert, two exceptionally talented and famous winemakers in Eastern Spain. In Venta del Moro, a village nestled in the mountains of Valencia, Victor and Ravi emphasise organic and regenerative farming with a focus on championing the native, local grapes of the region. La Comarcal's work is thorough and committed to their principles; sites are researched and studied extensively before being planted to specific native grape varieties and there is a huge focus on the planting of trees and mixed-agriculture. Their wines are fresh, youthful and gastronomic, expressing the exciting potential of Valencia wine.La Comarcal Blanco comes from the village of La Font de la Figuera, south of Valencia, and is a field blend of majority Malvasía with a minority of Macabeo and Chardonnay. Each grape is vinified separately in stainless steel tanks using native yeasts, with malolactic conversion being blocked to preserve freshness and fruit purity. After 6 months of ageing in stainless steel, the wines are blended together and bottled without fining and minimal filtration. Refreshing acidity with notes of crunchy yellow apple, lemon zest and a nuances of wild herbs.
La Maldición Tinto Fino 2023
- Producer: Bodegas Cinco Leguas
- Vintage: 2023
- Alcohol: 13%
- Drink: 18°C
- Price: €20
- Region: Madrid, Spain
- Grapes: Tempranillo (80%), Malvar (20%)
- Drink at: D'Olier Street, Darog(Galway) Uno Mas, 505(Dingle)
Marc Isart, native of Chinchón near Madrid, is the man behind Bodegas Cinco Leguas. After co-founding the famous Garnacha-centric winery Comando G in Sierra de Gredos, Marc has come home to focus on Malvar and Tinto Fino (the local name for Tempranillo). Him and his wife Carmen focus on several old vine parcels across the mountains of Madrid ranging around 700-800m above sea level. It is precisely due to this height and the major diurnal shifts it lends the vineyards that essential freshness can be preserved in such a central region of Spain. Marc's aim is to make wines that emphasise freshness, purity of fruit and precision.His approach is consistent and strict, following organic and biodynamic farming and careful but minimal intervention winemaking. A selection of fermenting and ageing vessels can be found in the winery ranging from oak barrels, concrete tanks and clay amphorae. All are used in varying proportions to achieve his clear vision for his wines. La Maldición, or "The Curse" in Spanish, refers to the difficulty of reaching and working the specific parcels from which this wine is made. Though the contents inside are better described as a blessing, rather than a curse! Old vine Tempranillo and white Malvar are co-fermented using native yeasts, then aged in a mix of concrete tanks and old French oak. Blackberry, wild spices, ripe purple cherry and fine-grained tannins with fresh acidity that gives the wine a versatile, gastronomic edge. An incredible wine, especially for the price.
Vidueño Blanco 2023
- Producer: Ocampo
- Vintage: 2023
- Alcohol: 13% ABV
- Drink: 16-18°C
- Price: €40
- Region: Tenerife, Spain
- Grapes: Malvasía, Marmajuelo, Albillo Criillo, Listán Blanco
- Drink at: Dedeat the Custioms House, D'Olier Street, Max's Wine Bar
Ocampo is a collaboration between the highly regarded winemaker Jonatan García Lima (the man behind Suertes del Marqués) and his friends in the López Días family based in Tacoronte-Acentejo, Northeast Tenerife. This lesser known part of Tenerife is the island's oldest official winemaking region, famous for its red volcanic soils and for its huge potential for exceptional wines.Beyond its incredible weather and stunning views of the Mediterranean ocean, Tenerife is blessed by a huge number of ungrafted vines. This is largely due to the absence of phylloxera on the island, an American aphid that raveged the wine regions Europe in the 1800s and nearly wiped out all of its vines. The solution was found by grafting European varieties onto American rootstocks and stopping phyloxera's reproduction cycle. Ungrafted vines are known to produce wines with greater fruit intensity, greater texture on the palate and lifted aromatics. All of Ocampo's wines are made from the fruit of ungrafted vines!Vidueño is a blend of 50% Malvasía Volcánica with Marmajuelo, Albillo Criillo and Listán Blanc making up the other half. After careful hand harvesting and rigorous sorting, the bunches are pressed and the juice fermented using native yeasts in high quality Austrian Stockinger oak barrels, then aged on its lees for 10 months. Notes of freshly cut citrus peel and ripe white stone fruits intermingle with white flowers and a touch of fennel from oak ageing. The creamy texture is framed by vibrant acidity and saline minerality. An unmistakably volcanic wine.
Listán Negro 2023
- Producer: Ocampo
- Vintage: 2023
- Alcohol: 13% ABV
- Drink: 12-14°C
- Price: €35
- Region: Tenerife, Spain
- Grapes: Listán Negro
- Drink at: Cava Bodega, Etto, Uno Mas
Listán Negro is one of the most exciting red grapes in the Canary Islands, with huge untapped potential. Given its propensity towards lighter body and lower alcohol, the grape is often used to make simple, juicy red wines using Carbonic Maceration. However, given high quality, ripe fruit and the hands of skilled winemakers world-class wines can be made from it.Jonatan and the López Días family grow Listán Negro at 200m above sea level on west-facing slopes in Tacoronte-Acentejo. Under his direction, international varieties are being replanted with both Listán Negro and Blanco here. They work closely with grape growers in the region, sourcing high quality fruit from their higher elevation (think 500-800m above sea level!), old vineyards of Listán Negro. These vines are trained according to the traditional Tenerife method of 'rastra', where the vine is stretched across the vineyard and kept close to the ground. This protects the vines from the sometimes ferocious winds in this part of the island.After hand harvesting, Ocampo's Listán Negro is fermented in concrete tanks using native yeasts over 15 days with 20% as whole bunch and the rest fully destemmed. The wine undergoes malolactic conversion and is then aged in Austrian Stockinger oak barrels (1500L foudres and 500L barrels) for 12 months. Ripe blackberry, wild spices and sweet, turned earth on the nose give way to a fresh palate replete with notes of plum and black cherry. Silky smooth tannins frame wild forest fruits and herbs, giving an elegant wine.