Welcome to our October edition of the Wine Club. This month, we turn our attention to the eastern side of Spain, the side I have come to love deeply for its quiet confidence and exceptional quality. It is a selection that speaks of old vines, high limestone plateaus, and low-intervention winemaking in its purest form.
Spain’s diverse terroir, landscape, and climate create an incredibly rich and varied winemaking environment. From the high, limestone plateaus of Fuente-Álamo and Jumilla in Albacete and Murcia, at nearly 1000 meters above sea level, to the wild, biodiversity-rich hills of the Foix Natural Park in Penedès, both eastern region's boasts a remarkable range of conditions that foster old bush vines and indigenous varieties, with viticultural diversity that rivals many renowned wine-producing regions worldwide. This month’s selection is centred on Monastrell, alongside Xarel·lo and Chardonnay, resulting in a diverse portfolio of wine styles, from a elegant, terroir-driven white aged on lees, to structured old-vine reds and joyful, low-intervention Pet Nat.
As I selected this months wines, my mind drifted as I tasted them. I found myself inhaling and tasting the flavours of northern Burgundy. Post traumatic wine bill stress (PTWBS) set in, I feared a huge invoice coming my way and then I remembered I was in the land of value and that great wine can always be produced where there is exceptional terroir, great vines and in the hands of a talented wine maker.
My hope is that this curated selection will inspire that same moment of discovery for you. May it remind you that wonder does not have to come with a frightening price tag and that true elegance can be found in the most unassuming places, made by those who farm with care and bottle with honesty.
— Sophie Robson, October 2026
Bodega Cerrón, Remordimiento Blanco 2024
- Producer: Bodega Cerrón
- Vintage: 2024
- Alcohol: 12.5%
- Drink: 10*
- Price: €22
- Region: Jumilla, Spain
- Grapes: Chardonnay
- Drink at: Comet, Woodruff, September, Uno Mas
Bodega Cerrón, located in the town of Fuente-Álamo within the DO Jumilla region of Albacete, is a family-run winery with a rich history dating back to 1895. Now led by brothers Juan José and Carlos, the winery continues the tradition started by their great-grandfather, Francisco Cerdán. The estate’s vineyards consist of small parcels, all farmed biodynamically.
Since 2011, Bodega Cerrón has focused on saving and recovering ungrafted (pie franco) vines, planted at an altitude of 950 meters above sea level. This initiative led to the creation of the Stratum Wines range in 2018, a collection of terroir-driven wines that have garnered significant acclaim. These wines stand out as some of the most impressive produced in Spain in recent years.
One of the standout wines from the estate is Remordimiento Blanco, crafted from Chardonnay grapes grown in a 4-hectare vineyard that was planted in 1989. These vines are located at an altitude of 840 meters and benefit from the vineyard’s chalky, stony soils. The grapes are cultivated organically and hand-harvested to ensure the highest quality is maintained. The wine is then aged on its lees for 4 months in 700-liter French and Hungarian oak barrels, which imparts complexity and richness to the final product.
Remordimiento Blanco offers enticing aromas of yellow fruits and white flowers, with subtle notes of toast and smoke, reflecting its barrel fermentation. On the palate, it is smooth, well-balanced, and flavourful, with a refreshing acidity that adds vibrancy. This wine pairs beautifully with vegetables, rice dishes, and semi-cured cheeses. While it can be enjoyed now, Remordimiento Blanco has the potential to age for 8-10 years, making it a versatile option for both immediate enjoyment and longer-term cellaring.
2. Bodega Cerrón, La Servil Old Vine Monastrell 2024
- Producer: Bodega Cerrón
- Vintage: 2024
- Alcohol: 14%
- Drink: 14*
- Price: €42
- Region: Jumilla, Spain
- Grapes: Monastrell
- Drink at: Uno Mas, D'Ollier Street, Etto, Alta
Keeping with Bodega Cerrón, La Sevil is up next and I have to say one of my favourite wines of the year and the reason I choose this months case. If you have ever had the privilege of drinking Domaine Tempier's Mouvedre (the same grape in France) from Bandol, you know, tasting this you are experiencing the same quality for half the price tag. Here in Jumilla the vineyard consist of small parcels of old bush vines of Monastrell planted on limestone soils.
Bodega Cerrón focuses on saving and recovering old vines, this initiative led to the creation of a collection of terroir-driven wines that have put Jumilla on the map, with La Servil as one of the most impressive old-vine expressions. Crafted from 100% Monastrell grapes, aged 60-70 years, cultivated according to ecological principles. The grapes are destemmed and undergo light maceration before spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts in wooden conical vats. The wine then ages for 12 months in 5000-litre foudres and used 500-litre barrels, and is bottled without filtering or clarifying, which imparts complexity and authenticity to the final product.
La Servil offers enticing aromas of ripe red fruit combined with toasted notes, spicy touches and mineral sensations, reflecting its limestone soils and old vine concentration. On the palate, it is smooth, well-balanced, fresh and flavoursome, with marked acidity, mature tannins and a long, persistent finish that adds vibrancy. This wine pairs beautifully with pork, charcuterie and Mediterranean dishes. While it can be enjoyed now, La Servil has potential to age for several years. Can you show restraint and keep this special bottle of Christmas, it won't be easy. Whatever the occasion, give it its best chance a good hour decant with some friends, you dont mind sharing something magical with.
Entre Vinyes, Oniric Pet Nat
- Producer: Entre Vinyes
- Vintage: 2025
- Alcohol: 11%
- Drink: 10*
- Price: €22
- Region: Penedès, Spain
- Grapes: Xarel·lo, Muscat
- Drink at: MacCurtain Street (Cork), Frank's
Entre Vinyes, located in the Penedès region of Catalunya within the Foix Natural Park, is a project dedicated to rescuing old vineyards with a rich commitment to organic farming and minimal intervention. Led by winemakers Pep and Maria, the estate continues a tradition of preserving indigenous varieties and expressing unique terroir. The estate’s vineyards consist of small parcels, all farmed organically, with old vines of Xarel·lo and Muscat planted on calcareous and virgin soils, surrounded by rich biodiversity that encourages natural balance.
Since its founding, Entre Vinyes has focused on recovering old vines over 60 years old, planted at altitude in the Foix Natural Park. This initiative led to the creation of the Oniric range, a collection of terroir-driven, natural wines that have the wine industry fighting for allocations.
One of the standout wines from the estate is Oniric Pet Nat, crafted from Xarel·lo and Muscat grapes grown in organic vineyards that benefit from calcareous soils. The vines are cultivated organically and hand-harvested in small 10kg boxes to ensure the highest quality is maintained. Each variety is vinified separately, with Xarel·lo fermented in stainless steel inox and Muscat in clay amphora, both with 100% natural yeasts. The wines are then blended towards the end of fermentation and bottled to finish in the ancestral Pétillant Naturel method, maintaining the carbonic gas produced, and aged for 6 months in bottle, which imparts texture and richness.
Oniric Pet Nat offers enticing aromas of red currant and citrus blossom, with subtle notes of rhubarb and apple, reflecting its natural fermentation. On the palate, it is dry, easy to drink and flavourful, with lively, persistent bubbles and refreshing acidity that adds vibrancy. Best served well-chilled, this wine pairs beautifully with aperitif, lighter fare and seafood. We all know we love Cava but sometimes we are looking for more of a celebration to pop a bottle, here we have bubbles from the same grapes that honor the unique characteristics of the Penedès region, with half the price and double the fun.
Parajes del Valle, Monastrell 2025
- Producer: Parajes del Valle
- Vintage: 2025
- Alcohol: 13%
- Drink: 14*
- Price: €18
- Region: Jumilla, Spain
- Grapes: Monastrell
- Drink at: Table 45
Parajes del Valle is one of the most exciting new projects in Jumilla, founded in 2018 with a very simple, smart idea: preserve the old, dry-farmed bush vines and put them in serious hands. Those hands belong to Maria Jover at just 28, from the Levante, and previously honing her craft at Vega Sicilia before coming home to Murcia to make organic Monastrell where it matters most. In the village of Jumilla itself, over 94% of vineyards are now farmed organically, and Monastrell accounts for 85% of all plantings.
Maria works with small parcels of free-standing gobelet vines, farmed organically in this hot, arid landscape. She hand-harvests, ferments with indigenous yeasts, and ages entirely in concrete, no oak to hide behind. It’s that Vega Sicilia rigour applied to wild Jumilla fruit, and it’s why the wine has such clarity and energy.
It shows immediately in the glass: crushed red fruit, blackberry and cassis lifted by violet, with a savoury flick of balsamic and sun-baked earth underneath. Juicy and velvety but fresh, dangerously drinkable with a slight chill. Pour it with pork, charcuterie or anything off the grill, this is new-wave Jumilla at its best, and a brilliant snapshot of a winemaker to watch.